Patchouli made in Indonesia
Patchouli is a famous ingredient in the history of perfumery. Native to Indonesia, this plant has fascinated and inspired the greatest perfumers for decades. Filled with myths and symbols of love and freedom, this essence reveals itself in a thousand and one ways in perfumed compositions.
Story:
The history of patchouli is one of travel. Native to Indonesia and Malaysia, patchouli is a shrub-like plant about a metre high. Supported by a hairy stem, this plant is adorned with white flowers in shades of violet. It also has large, soft, mint-like leaves. Fresh, the plant is almost odorless. You'll need to dry the leaves to begin to smell its distinctive fragrance. Patchouli is used for medicinal purposes, in cooking and even in magic to help you succeed financially or in love! It is still grown today in Indonesia, China and the Philippines.
Native to Indonesia and Malaysia, patchouli is a shrub-like plant about a metre high. Carried on a hairy stem, this plant is adorned with white flowers with purple tones. It also has large, soft, mint-like leaves. Fresh, the plant is almost odorless. You'll need to dry the leaves to begin to smell its distinctive fragrance. Patchouli is used for medicinal purposes, in cooking and even in magic to help you succeed financially or in love! It is still grown today in Indonesia, China and the Philippines.
How is it extracted?
The oil is contained in the epidermis, the stem and the downy leaves, mainly in the 3 youngest ones.
The first harvest takes place when the plant is 7 months old on average, then at 4-month intervals. Plants at higher altitudes can be harvested several times, in contrast to lower-lying areas where the plants are often uprooted after the first harvest.
Post-harvest techniques :
The leaves are dried for about 5 hours in the sun, then placed in a cooler.
shade. During drying, the weight of the leaves is divided by 4.
about.
In perfumery:
Patchouli essence is one of the most widely used natural raw materials in perfumery, along with citrus.
But what's behind this molecule? A woody note, of course, but also earthy, damp emanations from its roots. Patchouli can evoke notes of mold, reminiscent of overripe apples or wine corks. So, for perfumers, it's a question of dosage and combination to bring out these different facets in a composition.
Patchouli is used as a fixative for more volatile notes, thanks to its power of stability. To avoid overly heavy compositions, patchouli is never in the foreground. It wasn't until 1917 that François Coty brought patchouli into the spotlight in his famous Chypre, paving the way for a new olfactory family. Patchouli is found alongside bergamot and oakmoss in particular.
And finally, did you know?
It quickly became associated with the "demi-mondaines", the women known as "cocottes" who were taken in by wealthy Parisians. Sometimes overdosed, but above all very daring, patchouli would long remain associated with the expression "ça cocotte" in French, to denigrate its olfactory power, but above all the women who wore it! It soon became the perfume of seduction, thanks to its bewitching scent.
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