Le patchouli made in Indonesia
Patchouli is a famous ingredient in the history of perfumery. Native to Indonesia, this plant has fascinated and inspired the greatest perfumers for several decades. Filled with myths and symbols of love and freedom, this essence reveals itself in a thousand and one ways in fragrant compositions.
The story:
The history of patchouli is made up of travel. Native to Indonesia and Malaysia, patchouli is a shrub-like plant about one meter tall. Borne on a hairy stem, this plant is adorned with white flowers in purple tones. It also has large, fluffy, mint-like leaves. Fresh, the plant is almost odorless. You'll need to dry its leaves to start smelling its characteristic scent. Patchouli is used for medicinal purposes, in cooking, and even in magic to help you succeed financially or in love! Even today, it is grown in Indonesia, but also in China and the Philippines.
Native to Indonesia and Malaysia, patchouli is a shrub-like plant about one meter tall. Borne on a hairy stem, this plant is adorned with white flowers in purple tones. It also has large, fluffy, mint-like leaves. Fresh, the plant is almost odorless. You'll need to dry its leaves to start smelling its characteristic scent. Patchouli is used for medicinal purposes, in cooking, and even in magic to help you succeed financially or in love! Even today, it is grown in Indonesia, but also in China and the Philippines.
How is it extracted?
The oil is contained in the epidermis, in the stem, in the downy leaves, mainly in the 3 youngest.
The first harvest takes place when the plant is 7 months old on average, then at 4-month intervals. Several harvests can be carried out on plants located at altitude, unlike low areas where the vines are often pulled up at the first harvest.
Post-harvest techniques:
The leaves are dried for about 5 hours in the sun and then placed in the
shadow. When drying, the weight of the leaves is divided by 4
approximately.
In perfumery :
Patchouli essence is one of the most widely used natural raw materials in perfumery, along with citrus fruits.
But what is behind this molecule? A woody note, of course, but also earthy and humid emanations from its roots. Patchouli can evoke notes of mold, reminiscent of overripe apples or wine corks. So, for perfumers, it's all about dosing and combining to bring out these different facets in a composition
Patchouli is used as a fixative for more volatile notes, thanks to its power of stability. To avoid overly heavy compositions, patchouli is never in the foreground. It wasn't until 1917 that François Coty put patchouli in the spotlight in his famous Cyprus, which paved the way for a new olfactory family. Patchouli is found alongside bergamot and oakmoss in particular.
And finally, did you know?
He was quickly associated with the "demi-mondaines", these women called "cocottes" and who were taken care of by rich Parisians. Sometimes too dosed, but above all very daring, patchouli will remain associated for a long time with the expression "ça cocotte" in French, to denigrate its olfactory power, but especially the women who wore it! Very quickly, it became the perfume of seduction thanks to its bewitching fragrance.
